Got the Chinook over to the DMV and registered! Still waiting on front brakes to show up. Still outlining the work that needs to be done on the door frame and sealing/re-framing the roof. The sink faucet needs to still be installed, and a base 3D printed to replace where the hand pump faucet was.
Replaced rear wheel cylinders and brake pads including hardware. Ran into an issue where the passenger side rear wheel for some reason was a millimeter or so off and had to lightly file down for the replacement part to fit.
The original wheel cylinders look way cooler since they have to old school Toyota logo on them. But they are super rusty, could rebuild them if i wanted to.
I was able to re-create the flimsy sun damaged weep hole vents that were originally on my 1977 Toyota Chinook. All 8 print in about 2 hours /w 1.75mm ABS plastic filament and .1mm layer height on my Reprap Prusa i3.
I’ve published the part on Thingiverse and I’m selling replacements in my Etsy Store.
Worked on outlining the changes i need to make to the ignition. This includes the replacement of points to Pertronix electronic ignition. Got a replacement Accell coil, and confirmed that its resistance/voltage allow for the removal of the white resistor. It supports higher voltage, like the flamethrower coils. Otherwise the voltage is too low for the coil/igniter & it does not run optimally. I left the heat resistor on, but if it bugs me ill remove it and wire everything to the coil directly. Used a timing light, and adjusted the 8*BDC mark to 13*. (Sounded good, but need to confirm weather its optimal timing or not).
The model Pertronix igniter i used was the 91641 and i followed the “Pertronix Ignitor II Wiring With Flamethrower Coil” instructions below. If your coil supports the voltage, you may as well remove the resistor and relocate the wires to the positive side of the coil directly. Make sure to follow the voltmeter instructions when installing to confirm proper setup.
We reinstalled the gas tank and got a gallon or two of gas in the tank. We then did a compression test, and confirmed compression stroke /w top dead center on the first piston. Reinstalled all new Silicone vacuum lines and Placed the timing angle at 13* (high altitude) and turned the 20R engine over! She started right up, so it looks like i wont have to rebuild the carb right now. Overall, we still need to adjust the valves when they get warm, and seal up the valve cover. Next step is to fix/flush the clutch slave & wait for the brake booster to show up. Im glad we finally turned the 20R engine over! And the points ignition and distributor still work.
Vacuum Diagram Scribbled
The rear door seal has been replaced on the outer side the inner door needs to be completely pulled out of the Chinook looks like welds need to be broken. Replaced all the old rubber vacuum lines with silicone ones, color-coded some of the important ones yellow. De-rusted and repainted the fan guard, as well as red coated the inside of the gas tank.
Im letting the gas tank soak in a bunch of vinegar. It will get a Baking Soda scrub after soaking for a few days, which should get rid of the acid and remaining rust. I will be installing New Hoses and fuel pump once its clean and re-lined and painted. I used the old rubber seal and some Kapton tape to hold the mixture in the tank. Ended up leaving the top vent line of the fuel sender open in-case the tank needs to breathe. Since i drive 30+ miles a day, a day or two of driving should do the trick.
Vinegar Slosh
The Engine is back in the engine bay, /w the Resealed L43 4 speed transmission and side linkage.
Have the gas tank pulled, being cleaned at the moment. Waiting for a rebuilt distributor since the original may have a damaged diaphragm. New Fuel pump and lines ready to go back in once the rust is removed, and the tank gets Red Kote lined from the inside.
Looking At replacing some aged and weathered parts. Water entry and regulator need to be replaced due to 30+ years of sun damage. Replacing hand pump sink with something more modern/electric. Hot side can be plugged into the regulator and cold side can be electric pump facing. May 3D print a separate base for the faucet to mount to /w switches for other 12V hardware.
Rust Cleanup begins, cleaning and de-greasing.
