Tag Archive for pickup

The Intake is leaking!

So it turns out the metal coolant plate under the stock intake isn’t a very good design. it’s a dissimilar metal from The Aluminum Intake and it looks like it’s Stamped Out of sheet metal and coated in zinc. I cleaned mine since it was super corroded and thought I could reuse it but apparently it needs to be replaced. The paper gasket and silicone didn’t seem to do much, even after tightening it up when the engine was warm.

LCE Engineering makes an Aluminum 9 Bolt Block Plate version which I’m probably going to replace it with. The picture below shows the stock one leaking. Since it was stamped and not a solid plate the hardware isn’t easy to get to.


I’m just glad in the rebuild process this is the only problem I’ve had so far.

Pertronix Ignition

Worked on outlining the changes i need to make to the ignition. This includes the replacement of points to Pertronix electronic ignition. Got a replacement Accell coil, and confirmed that its resistance/voltage allow for the removal of the white resistor. It supports higher voltage, like the flamethrower coils. Otherwise the voltage is too low for the coil/igniter & it does not run optimally. I left the heat resistor on, but if it bugs me ill remove it and wire everything to the coil directly. Used a timing light, and adjusted the 8*BDC mark to 13*. (Sounded good, but need to confirm weather its optimal timing or not).

The model Pertronix igniter i used was the 91641¬†and i followed the “Pertronix Ignitor II Wiring With Flamethrower Coil” instructions below. If your coil supports the voltage, you may as well remove the resistor and relocate the wires to the positive side of the coil directly. Make sure to follow the voltmeter instructions when installing to confirm proper setup.

Toyota 20R engine started

We reinstalled the gas tank and got a gallon or two of gas in the tank. We then did a compression test, and confirmed compression stroke /w top dead center on the first piston. Reinstalled all new Silicone vacuum lines and Placed the timing angle at 13* (high altitude) and turned the 20R engine over! She started right up, so it looks like i wont have to rebuild the carb right now. Overall, we still need to adjust the valves when they get warm, and seal up the valve cover. Next step is to fix/flush the clutch slave & wait for the brake booster to show up. Im glad we finally turned the 20R engine over! And the points ignition and distributor still work.

Vacuum Diagram Scribbled

Vacuum Diagram Scribbled

Fuel System & Lines

The rear door seal has been replaced on the outer side the inner door needs to be completely pulled out of the Chinook looks like welds need to be broken. Replaced all the old rubber vacuum lines with silicone ones, color-coded some of the important ones yellow. De-rusted and repainted the fan guard, as well as red coated the inside of the gas tank.

Interior and Measurements

Looking At replacing some aged and weathered parts. Water entry and regulator need to be replaced due to 30+ years of sun damage. Replacing hand pump sink with something more modern/electric. Hot side can be plugged into the regulator and cold side can be electric pump facing. May 3D print a separate base for the faucet to mount to /w switches for other 12V hardware.

Engine Bay Cleanup

Rust Cleanup begins, cleaning and de-greasing.

Engine Rebuild

The engine is back from being bored, pistons and rings in hand. Identifying work that needs to be done on the transmission. Assembling the low and top end of the engine. Cleanup of bell housing and oil pan. Clutch kit is on order.

Engine Transmission Pull

With a cheap harbor freight hoist the 20r engine and R43 transmission have been pulled. The block crank and head will be taken to a local shop to get bored honed and rebuilt. Cylinders didn’t look to bad for 80k miles. Since the Chinook had a blown head gasket, my guess is that it overheated since the thermostat was shot & the head bolts didn’t appear to be torqued properly.