Got the Chinook over to the DMV and registered! Still waiting on front brakes to show up. Still outlining the work that needs to be done on the door frame and sealing/re-framing the roof. The sink faucet needs to still be installed, and a base 3D printed to replace where the hand pump faucet was.
Tag Archive for chinook
Replaced rear wheel cylinders and brake pads including hardware. Ran into an issue where the passenger side rear wheel for some reason was a millimeter or so off and had to lightly file down for the replacement part to fit.
The original wheel cylinders look way cooler since they have to old school Toyota logo on them. But they are super rusty, could rebuild them if i wanted to.
I was able to re-create the flimsy sun damaged weep hole vents that were originally on my 1977 Toyota Chinook. All 8 print in about 2 hours /w 1.75mm ABS plastic filament and .1mm layer height on my Reprap Prusa i3.
Installed new front and rear shocks on the Chinook. Also took the time to replace most of the linkages and ball joints.
The old upper and lower ball joints had about a cm of grease and dirt coating them. A shop towel or bin came in handy to collect all the junk i scraped off before i could even get to the hardware to remove them. Must have been the original ball joints and linkages since they were shot. I had to smack the crap out of the ball joints to get them to separate. Even the shocks i replaced had no go to them. Decided to go with Moog and KYB replacements for all the suspension.
The KYB’s made an immediate noticeable difference for the front and rear ends. When i step on the rear bumper there is way less give. The load bearing shocks i replaced in the back most have been completely gone since they were super bouncy. Now when I’m moving in the back of the Chinook its super stable with those KYB’s. We will see how they handle when i get more weight back there, otherwise rancho load bearing shocks with the spring may better suite me. I’m just waiting on a replacement pitman arm, and all the front end slop and play will be gone!
The new intake block plate looks great. As always, LCE Engineering delivers.
Cleaning the old silicone off took the most time, next to removing the manifold with the carburetor on it. Drained half my coolant before disconnecting all my hoses. Drained the remaining coolant and gas from the carburetor by holding it upside down for a minute or so. Let it set overnight and reinstalled all the hoses and vacuum lines. Only had to replace the front facing part of the intake gasket (around the coolant passage) since i used silicone there.
So it turns out the metal coolant plate under the stock intake isn’t a very good design. it’s a dissimilar metal from The Aluminum Intake and it looks like it’s Stamped Out of sheet metal and coated in zinc. I cleaned mine since it was super corroded and thought I could reuse it but apparently it needs to be replaced. The paper gasket and silicone didn’t seem to do much, even after tightening it up when the engine was warm.
LCE Engineering makes an Aluminum 9 Bolt Block Plate version which I’m probably going to replace it with. The picture below shows the stock one leaking. Since it was stamped and not a solid plate the hardware isn’t easy to get to.
I’m just glad in the rebuild process this is the only problem I’ve had so far.
Worked on outlining the changes i need to make to the ignition. This includes the replacement of points to Pertronix electronic ignition. Got a replacement Accell coil, and confirmed that its resistance/voltage allow for the removal of the white resistor. It supports higher voltage, like the flamethrower coils. Otherwise the voltage is too low for the coil/igniter & it does not run optimally. I left the heat resistor on, but if it bugs me ill remove it and wire everything to the coil directly. Used a timing light, and adjusted the 8*BDC mark to 13*. (Sounded good, but need to confirm weather its optimal timing or not).
The model Pertronix igniter i used was the 91641 and i followed the “Pertronix Ignitor II Wiring With Flamethrower Coil” instructions below. If your coil supports the voltage, you may as well remove the resistor and relocate the wires to the positive side of the coil directly. Make sure to follow the voltmeter instructions when installing to confirm proper setup.
We reinstalled the gas tank and got a gallon or two of gas in the tank. We then did a compression test, and confirmed compression stroke /w top dead center on the first piston. Reinstalled all new Silicone vacuum lines and Placed the timing angle at 13* (high altitude) and turned the 20R engine over! She started right up, so it looks like i wont have to rebuild the carb right now. Overall, we still need to adjust the valves when they get warm, and seal up the valve cover. Next step is to fix/flush the clutch slave & wait for the brake booster to show up. Im glad we finally turned the 20R engine over! And the points ignition and distributor still work.
The rear door seal has been replaced on the outer side the inner door needs to be completely pulled out of the Chinook looks like welds need to be broken. Replaced all the old rubber vacuum lines with silicone ones, color-coded some of the important ones yellow. De-rusted and repainted the fan guard, as well as red coated the inside of the gas tank.
Im letting the gas tank soak in a bunch of vinegar. It will get a Baking Soda scrub after soaking for a few days, which should get rid of the acid and remaining rust. I will be installing New Hoses and fuel pump once its clean and re-lined and painted. I used the old rubber seal and some Kapton tape to hold the mixture in the tank. Ended up leaving the top vent line of the fuel sender open in-case the tank needs to breathe. Since i drive 30+ miles a day, a day or two of driving should do the trick.