Got the Chinook over to the DMV and registered! Still waiting on front brakes to show up. Still outlining the work that needs to be done on the door frame and sealing/re-framing the roof. The sink faucet needs to still be installed, and a base 3D printed to replace where the hand pump faucet was.
Tag Archive for 20r
Installed new front and rear shocks on the Chinook. Also took the time to replace most of the linkages and ball joints.
The old upper and lower ball joints had about a cm of grease and dirt coating them. A shop towel or bin came in handy to collect all the junk i scraped off before i could even get to the hardware to remove them. Must have been the original ball joints and linkages since they were shot. I had to smack the crap out of the ball joints to get them to separate. Even the shocks i replaced had no go to them. Decided to go with Moog and KYB replacements for all the suspension.
The KYB’s made an immediate noticeable difference for the front and rear ends. When i step on the rear bumper there is way less give. The load bearing shocks i replaced in the back most have been completely gone since they were super bouncy. Now when I’m moving in the back of the Chinook its super stable with those KYB’s. We will see how they handle when i get more weight back there, otherwise rancho load bearing shocks with the spring may better suite me. I’m just waiting on a replacement pitman arm, and all the front end slop and play will be gone!
The new intake block plate looks great. As always, LCE Engineering delivers.
Cleaning the old silicone off took the most time, next to removing the manifold with the carburetor on it. Drained half my coolant before disconnecting all my hoses. Drained the remaining coolant and gas from the carburetor by holding it upside down for a minute or so. Let it set overnight and reinstalled all the hoses and vacuum lines. Only had to replace the front facing part of the intake gasket (around the coolant passage) since i used silicone there.
So it turns out the metal coolant plate under the stock intake isn’t a very good design. it’s a dissimilar metal from The Aluminum Intake and it looks like it’s Stamped Out of sheet metal and coated in zinc. I cleaned mine since it was super corroded and thought I could reuse it but apparently it needs to be replaced. The paper gasket and silicone didn’t seem to do much, even after tightening it up when the engine was warm.
LCE Engineering makes an Aluminum 9 Bolt Block Plate version which I’m probably going to replace it with. The picture below shows the stock one leaking. Since it was stamped and not a solid plate the hardware isn’t easy to get to.
I’m just glad in the rebuild process this is the only problem I’ve had so far.
We reinstalled the gas tank and got a gallon or two of gas in the tank. We then did a compression test, and confirmed compression stroke /w top dead center on the first piston. Reinstalled all new Silicone vacuum lines and Placed the timing angle at 13* (high altitude) and turned the 20R engine over! She started right up, so it looks like i wont have to rebuild the carb right now. Overall, we still need to adjust the valves when they get warm, and seal up the valve cover. Next step is to fix/flush the clutch slave & wait for the brake booster to show up. Im glad we finally turned the 20R engine over! And the points ignition and distributor still work.
The engine is back from being bored, pistons and rings in hand. Identifying work that needs to be done on the transmission. Assembling the low and top end of the engine. Cleanup of bell housing and oil pan. Clutch kit is on order.