It turns out the tank i had no matter what could not be re-certified. It was old, rusty and on the inside had some rust. So i found two local tanks on craigslist that fit the description. Made in 1998′ there were a few differences. Notably the fact the propane valve is 90* upward versus a 45* downward angle. The feet were also different and didn’t lock into place like the original tank (both Manchester).
I routed out the lower piece of wood and added another piece of plywood that was fiber-glassed underneath. This way i could install the tank, bolt is down and give more headroom for the new tank. The new tank really closely interfered with the lines running to the stove and furnace so this gave more room. I also had to get 90* brass fittings for the 1/4 inlet and 3/8 outlet of the regulator. Once that was done, everything fits. Ill have to go in later and make it more waterproof in the box. The piece of wood under the propane tank was glassed, and coated with rubber undercoating to prevent future wood root since its right in the wheel well.
The Manchester 20lb horizontal tanks are expensive in the sense that they are highly sought after. They are technically exempt since they were built before 1998 and are non OPD valve retrofittable. The valve-cores are replaceable, and the surface rust is easy to clean and prepare a new paint-job.
I was hesitant and looked at replacement tanks, but to be honest the new Manchester tanks don’t work as a direct replacement. The valve moves from the center to the top, and the valve is out at a 90* angle vs a 45* angle downward. It would require a different style of regulator and some more propane line work.
I found a shop online that had replacement valve cores for this model Sherwood valve and decided to go the refurbish route. The valves are counter threaded, and require a torque wrench to get on properly without damaging the brass. I also got a replacement LP regulator, hose, and newer style POL fitting that has a rubber gasket on the end.
I’m in the process of painting the tank, and will need to get it leak tested before i go get it filled with LPG. Im no concerned with the replacement valve stem, im more concerned with the old purge valve since i cannot find a replacement rubber o-ring for the inside of it. I.m sure ill be able to measure and track down something that will work.
Got the Chinook over to the DMV and registered! Still waiting on front brakes to show up. Still outlining the work that needs to be done on the door frame and sealing/re-framing the roof. The sink faucet needs to still be installed, and a base 3D printed to replace where the hand pump faucet was.
Replaced rear wheel cylinders and brake pads including hardware. Ran into an issue where the passenger side rear wheel for some reason was a millimeter or so off and had to lightly file down for the replacement part to fit.
Filed down Wheel
The original wheel cylinders look way cooler since they have to old school Toyota logo on them. But they are super rusty, could rebuild them if i wanted to.
I was able to re-create the flimsy sun damaged weep hole vents that were originally on my 1977 Toyota Chinook. All 8 print in about 2 hours /w 1.75mm ABS plastic filament and .1mm layer height on my Reprap Prusa i3.
Installed new front and rear shocks on the Chinook. Also took the time to replace most of the linkages and ball joints.
Upper/Lower Ball Joints
The old upper and lower ball joints had about a cm of grease and dirt coating them. A shop towel or bin came in handy to collect all the junk i scraped off before i could even get to the hardware to remove them. Must have been the original ball joints and linkages since they were shot. I had to smack the crap out of the ball joints to get them to separate. Even the shocks i replaced had no go to them. Decided to go with Moog and KYB replacements for all the suspension.
The KYB’s made an immediate noticeable difference for the front and rear ends. When i step on the rear bumper there is way less give. The load bearing shocks i replaced in the back most have been completely gone since they were super bouncy. Now when I’m moving in the back of the Chinook its super stable with those KYB’s. We will see how they handle when i get more weight back there, otherwise rancho load bearing shocks with the spring may better suite me. I’m just waiting on a replacement pitman arm, and all the front end slop and play will be gone!
The new intake block plate looks great. As always, LCE Engineering delivers.
New Block Plate
New and Old Plate
Cleaning the old silicone off took the most time, next to removing the manifold with the carburetor on it. Drained half my coolant before disconnecting all my hoses. Drained the remaining coolant and gas from the carburetor by holding it upside down for a minute or so. Let it set overnight and reinstalled all the hoses and vacuum lines. Only had to replace the front facing part of the intake gasket (around the coolant passage) since i used silicone there.
So it turns out the metal coolant plate under the stock intake isn’t a very good design. it’s a dissimilar metal from The Aluminum Intake and it looks like it’s Stamped Out of sheet metal and coated in zinc. I cleaned mine since it was super corroded and thought I could reuse it but apparently it needs to be replaced. The paper gasket and silicone didn’t seem to do much, even after tightening it up when the engine was warm.
LCE Engineering makes an Aluminum 9 Bolt Block Plate version which I’m probably going to replace it with. The picture below shows the stock one leaking. Since it was stamped and not a solid plate the hardware isn’t easy to get to.
I’m just glad in the rebuild process this is the only problem I’ve had so far.
Worked on outlining the changes i need to make to the ignition. This includes the replacement of points to Pertronix electronic ignition. Got a replacement Accell coil, and confirmed that its resistance/voltage allow for the removal of the white resistor. It supports higher voltage, like the flamethrower coils. Otherwise the voltage is too low for the coil/igniter & it does not run optimally. I left the heat resistor on, but if it bugs me ill remove it and wire everything to the coil directly. Used a timing light, and adjusted the 8*BDC mark to 13*. (Sounded good, but need to confirm weather its optimal timing or not).
The model Pertronix igniter i used was the 91641 and i followed the “Pertronix Ignitor II Wiring With Flamethrower Coil” instructions below. If your coil supports the voltage, you may as well remove the resistor and relocate the wires to the positive side of the coil directly. Make sure to follow the voltmeter instructions when installing to confirm proper setup.
We reinstalled the gas tank and got a gallon or two of gas in the tank. We then did a compression test, and confirmed compression stroke /w top dead center on the first piston. Reinstalled all new Silicone vacuum lines and Placed the timing angle at 13* (high altitude) and turned the 20R engine over! She started right up, so it looks like i wont have to rebuild the carb right now. Overall, we still need to adjust the valves when they get warm, and seal up the valve cover. Next step is to fix/flush the clutch slave & wait for the brake booster to show up. Im glad we finally turned the 20R engine over! And the points ignition and distributor still work.